by Barry and Cindy 1997 U270 36′
Removed the original hot water tank. We cut open the 2-1/2-year-old tank to learn what happens to the inside in two years.
Installed new 10 gallon gas & electric Atwood hot water tank.
Cold water supply changed from top of plumbing manifold to a cold water manifold valve
Hot water from the tank changed from top of the plumbing manifold to a hot water manifold valve.
Two topwater manifold plumbing connections capped off.
A new hose ran from a cold water manifold valve to a hot water manifold valve to bypass the hot water tank for winterizing.
Replaced all original water pump plumbing from the bottom of freshwater tank to bottom water manifold bottom connections.
Ball valves installed on input and output water pump hoses to allow the water pump to be replaced without having to drain freshwater tank or drain kitchen & bathwater lines.
Installed a permanent water pressure gauge to monitor water pump output, city water pressure & hot water tank expansion psi.
Rerouted freshwater tank overflow hose from running over rear bulkhead to flowing through floor far from the bulkhead.
The new hot water tank was plumbed and electrical connections made before installing in a motorhome.
Tested for leaks before installing Tank new rear close: Black box houses electric heating element & control relay, plumbing uses right-angle fittings.
The original pump area has grown to a maze of plumbing connections & hoses. Blue expansion tank was removed a long time ago, but its blue wall mounts were still in place.
All plumbing from the freshwater tank to the bottom of the water manifold was replaced. All holes in floor sealed to keep water leaks from bulkhead & inside floor. New plumbing held in place with Velcro to eliminate screws into floor. Pump new: New plumbing hoses, fittings & valves
New hose connected to cold and hot sides of water manifold. Both valves are normally closed and opened only to bypass hot water tank for winterizing or in case of hot water tank leak at which cases the valves connecting hot and cold water lines to the tank are closed.
The original hot water tank was connected to the top of the water manifold, eliminating any way to shut off the hoses for winterizing or if there was a tank leak. The new tank has its water connections at water manifold valves and manifold top connections were capped.
Original fresh water tank overflow went out back of bulkhead and wet bottom rear bulkhead, which promoted rust. Hose was re-routed
Freshwater tank overflow routed to water manifold area hole in the floor. Original rear bulkhead hole capped off.
New freshwater tank overflow hose was run through floor to keep water from flowing over the rear bulkhead
Hot water heater plug fails
I was walking around the outside of the coach this morning and saw water on the ground under the “plumbing” bay. It appeared to be coming from around the drain plug on the hot water tank. When I tried to tighten it, the plug sheared off (I hardly had the wrench on it). This will be easy to fix IF I can get the rest of the plug out of the threaded hole. Any ideas? There must be a tool for this. George Hatfield 2003 U295
Any Lowes or Home Depot has a tool to remove broken sprinkler heads. They work.
Another technique on the Atwood plastic plugs is to heat a standard screwdriver that will just fit into the opening (if the plug weren’t there). Heated, it will “melt in” to the plug and allow you to twist it out.
Replace the plugs every year when you drain the mineral sediment out of the tank. Use Teflon tape on the threads. If there are mineral deposits on the threads, use vinegar and a toothbrush (never your own) to remove them. Brett Wolfe 1993 U240