There are 3 Robertson screws holding the blinds in place. Look up to under valance and you will see. Undo them and it will come down. The restringing is actually quite simple to do but make sure you have the right size cord for it.
We have had to restring many of our shades. Did them all ourselves on our bed.
We remove valance screws, then shade mounting screws.
Use the long needle to string down the right side from top to middle rail.
Across middle rail, then down left side.
Then across the bottom rail to right wall spool.
Same for the other side, only reverse right and left.
Our last order from United shade:
- 1.4mm cord white #005, $0.15 yard, 100 for $15.00
- Fawn C channel endcaps, $0.25 piece, 10 for $2.50
- 1″ Endcaps Alabaster, $0.25 each, 4 for $1.00
Copy of my notes:
Shades mfg by
United Shade
28605 County Road 6,
Elkhart IN
574-262-0954
Mellissa or Donna
Color = Off white (also comes in beige, which we do not use)
$0.15 / yard ($0.05 / foot)
$.25 each plastic end cap
150′ cost $7.50 + 5% tax + UPS charges
300′ cost $15.00 + 5% tax + UPS charges Spools
(Foretravel $0.21 each)
2 types of rails: “C” rails like most of ours and “square rail like our driver’s shade.
End caps are either C or square and come in alabaster (ours) or taupe, no clear. All end caps have a string hole, none with a metal edge on the hole. Maximum practical length to purchase from the 1,000-foot roll is 300′
Bobbin
Bring two strings into bobbin holes from the wall side in, with strings straddling screw. String holes down.
Position bobbin so string holes are down and strings straddle screw
Start screw into the wall with bobbin loose. Do not snug bobbin against the wall.
Pull strings tight through bobbin by pulling down on vertical strings above.
Pulling strings through bobbin without ALSO pulling down on vertical strings will stress holes on the bobbin
Pull strings down with fingers way above bobbin to tighten the tension.
Check tension adjustment by strumming of strings.
Tighten bobbin screw and wind excess string around the bobbin, then knot
Barry Levitt 1997 U270
My experience was similar for one blind that had only two strings. The original appeared to have a 1.2 mm cord. I replaced it with a 1.4 mm cord. A trick that I used successfully was to weld the new string to the old string by burning one string, blowing out the flame, and quickly fusing the new string to the old, end-to-end. It took a few tries to get a good weld but worked very well for pulling the new string through the same route as the old string.
I got materials from FixMyBlinds.com. J D Stevens 1997 U295 CAI 36′