Our headlights were yellowed and we were seriously considering replacing the headlight assembly for $650. Since we had nothing to lose I felt free to experiment. My research said SEALING a surface after it is restored is very important. If I don’t do that the yellowing will return sooner rather than later.
But first I needed to remove the yellowing. For that, I used an abrasive compound. Compounds come in grades of abrasiveness. I used the “heavy cut” grade from Classic Motoring. “Gel Coat Labs Heavy Cut Compound”
Over the years of trying every kind of cleaner for various needs (I had an arsenal from Camping World, RV shows, the Foretravel factory, Wal Mart, friend’s recommendations, etc). Then someone recommended the products at Classic Motoring. They truly worked much better and I’ve never looked back. Their web site at properrvcare.com pictures one of the owner’s Foretravel on the home page, which I understand was used to test products to determine what really worked for Gel Coat finishes. Classic Motoring happens to be in Tampa ½ hr away from us and we’ve visited them a few times, picked their brains, and learned more about what products fit our needs and why. Properautocare.com is also their web site with a different market target. What I really like about their web site is they go out of their way to explain in detail the “why” and “how-to” instructions. I use their Gel Coat Labs product on the motorhome and think they are tops.
To restore yellowed headlights I used my Porter Cable 7424 dual-action orbital machine ($129) with foam pads specifically made for compounding. The PC7424 is an industry-standard for vehicle finishing. Small variable-speed, powerful, durable, compact, quiet, versatile. I’ve used it for lots of other things, even cleaning upholstery with upholstery brushes, and plan to use it on restoring our countertops. Put sandpaper on it and use it on wood. Having done more than my share of waxing by hand with uneven results, I think a machine is the only way to go. Rubbing yellowed headlights by hand would take much, much longer, probably never do as good and as even a job.
Back to the pads… Pads for compounding are a rougher texture (versus a pad used for polishing which is very soft). Coarse pads are a must to cut through the yellow on the headlights. These more coarse pads are usually orange in color.
To get into the confined area of the headlights, I use a 4” backing disk and 4″ pads. (I use 6” backing disk and 6-7″ pads to do the broader expanses of the motorhome.)
1) Smear the compound directly on the headlights, but the machine against the headlight and turn it on to a lower speed of 3 (out of 1-8). Be prepared for some splattering. I wear thin rubber gloves. And I mask off around the headlights with blue painters masking tape. That way I can feel free to get right up to the edges and not worry about chrome or rubber trim, or compounding where I don’t want to. Just work the compound around, adding more compound without hesitation. This took me probably 20-30 minutes per headlight. I’d compound for a while, wipe off a section to see if it looked clear, then go at it again, and again, and again, and again. When I thought I was close to done I washed off the headlight to see the real results without any residue from the compound. The heavy cut compound will leave the headlights dull but without any yellowing. You will know when you are done. If in doubt, compound some more.
2) Wash the area to remove the compound residue.
3) Next is “polishing” to bring out the shine. I use a “fine cut” polish next. This will turn the dull look to a shiny finish. I use “Gel Coat Labs Fine Cut Polish”. This is like a very fine compound. You need to use a pad designed for polishing as opposed to compounding. This will remove the dull finish left by the heavy cut compounding.
4) Logically, the final step is to SEAL the surface. Sealants are different for different surfaces. Without sealing, all your work will be down the drain in a couple of months. Just like cleaning aluminum wheels – if they aren’t sealed, the next rain they are back to dull. But this is where I cannot find a true plastic “sealant”. Basically sealants seem to be a polymer coating that lasts for about 6 months. All I can find for plastic is a “cleaner/protector”. In the past, I used Plexus Plastic Cleaner (aerosol) which worked fine. But I think these plastic “cleaners” only do half the job of sealing because of they also clean. So Plexus cannot be very durable.
I have a great sealant for our motorhome’s Gel Coat finish (All Marine Surface Sealant from Gel Coat Labs). I just got the bottle and it says “For standard & painted gel coats.” “This powerful polymer-based surface sealant is designed to seal and protect finishes from marine contamination, industrial fallout, salt air, acid rain and UV inducing slow fade. Seal and protects painted and non-painted gel coats, stainless steel, and aluminum surfaces.” After looking again at plastic products, I would use this All Marine Surface Sealant on headlights next time. I say that because it is ONLY a sealant – no cleaning or polishing properties. One must allow it to dry to a haze before wiping off – the sign of a more durable product. And I already use it on our motorhome with terrific results – we’re all Gel Coat without any painted surfaces.
Another approach is to apply a coat of protectant/sealant to the headlights every now and then. Plexus is easy to put on. Spray it on and wipe off with a microfiber towel. Fast and easy. My experience was once I removed the yellowing and restored the gloss, periodic treatment with a plastic treatment was all that was needed.
There are many polishes specifically made for plastic but these are mostly one-step and include removing bugs. You’ve already done all that with compounding. Take a look at the properrvcare.com web site under the left sidebar: “Glass & Plastic Care”. Read details of the products carefully. The “Mothers Plastic Polish” sounded interesting for ongoing maintenance of your restored headlights. Also, Blackfire products are good. CINDY G. 3/17/08
*********************************************************************
I just cleaned and made my 1995 280 headlights like new with Meguires Plastx available at Wally_Mart for about 6 bucks.
Plastx is used by professional detailers to restore headlights.
It took less than 20 minutes to make the headlights like new. I used my buffer with a foam cover and just used the side to not hit any painted surface.
About 6 minutes on each headlight with the buffer and 4 minutes by hand hard rubbing and then a quick “lighter” hand polish.
They really look like new.
I could feel the “roughness” disappear to a smooth as glass finish when rubbing by hand.
I used a “microfiber” polishing cloth for the hand application and it worked fine.
When I started, you could feel the “rough texture” of the discolored plastic lens.
It quickly went to a smooth as glass finish. I then polished the lens with “ICE” auto polish to provide some UV protection.
It seems to be real nice. Maybe the light output will be a little better. Greg Jones 3/17/08
No matter how faded, a jitterbug starting with fairly fine wet or dry (wet) and progressing to 2500 will make the OEM plastic lenses like new in a couple of minutes. Don’t even need a buffer after 2500. HID kits are available from stock brightness to very bright and also in your choice of temperature (color). Not much work and about $59 or so delivered. If you have an air compressor, Harbor Freight has a very excellent jitterbug for exactly $24.99 Jitterbug Orbital Air Sander Well made and does not use too much air so most compressors will run it. I turn the speed down a little. I have used it for many hours with only a little air tool lube each time.
HID kits are about $59 with the big advantage of not having to install the sealed beams and then trying to aim them. About 10 minutes to clean up the lenses, a half-hour to install the new bulbs and power supplies and an hour to run a wire down from the ignition solenoid. Pierce 1993 U300 36′